For cyclists,

there are important differences between

bicycling South Island New Zealand and North Island 

One more important feature about South Island: Many of the roads, for some reason, have a much better seal (more tar in the mix) which makes maintaining momentum a lot easier!

We took the beautiful ferry ride from Wellington, North Island to Picton, South Island. It is a very picturesque town that serves as the jumping off point for our bicycle tour. The town lies at the head of the incredibly scenic Queen Charlotte Sound.

Bicycling South Island New Zealand

Route 1-Picton to Westport-7 stages-197 miles

 Picton/Havelock/Renwick/St Arnaud/Murchison/Inangahua/Westport

It is now the Christmas holidays, and we are learning how important it is to plan our night’s stay. The caravan parks tend to support hordes of screaming, running, fun seeking children playing on the trampolines, in the pools, and in general…just being children. For peace and quiet, we seek out the Backpackers and try to tent there. They attract the foreign travelers with whom we can share interesting stories of places to go.

We had a choice. Christmas Day cleared. We could hike up to the top of Mt Roberts and get a Bird’s eye view of glacial Lake Rotoiti, or use the day to get that much closer to Westport.

 

Heavy rain and strong winds were still in the forecast and we did not like being at such a cold elevation. We decided to ride.

It was time for the long 100 mile descent to Westport to begin. The wide open valley of the Upper Buller River was scenically delightful. Traffic was nil and the ever present headwinds tolerable. The downhill grade was so gentle, we coasted without braking. A more enticing peddlers’ paradise could not exist. Why do we cycle the hard days? It’s all part of the adventure, and makes the good days that much better.

St Arnaud to Westport-Buller River Scenic Route

3 days of thrilling river canyon-about 100 miles

The Buller River is South Island’s largest drainage. It meanders slowly at first, braided by independent minded branches that mix and separate. The road huddles nearby with sumptuous views of a pastoral Nirvana. The Buller carves through several canyons; the first begins in earnest and we find ourselves buffeted by winds that don’t know which way to blow. Come around a corner, get knocked sideways, or struggle against the straight on force. Still, the river flows, a perfect passage way for canoes or kayaks, as we climb and descend over crags and bluffs.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Traffic picks up when we reach Kawatiri Junction and the road from Nelson. Cars are in their usually hurry to somewhere, missing the fine scenery as they speed by. Do they realize what they have in their own back yard? Sometimes I wonder. We move along, sometimes soaring, other times plodding, but the river is always there to steel our attention. We make our destination and camp at a new caravan park 5 miles east of Murchison.–

It’s 60 more miles to Westport with no place to bail out if the weather turns.

We debate taking the bus as predictions offer severe weather warnings. But the day dawns calm and friendly, so we decide to ride. Though we will lose 800 feet in total elevation, there are plenty of short hills that must be climbed in low gear. Once again, the Buller accompanies our efforts. The canyon narrows from here; the mountain sides rise straight up from the road; ferns smother the cliffs.  The rain seems willing to delay its assault upon us.

We have a fine ride and decide to stop for the night at Berlin Cafe, 18 miles short of Westport.

We want to save the infamous Buller Canyon for a fresh day.

But pre-dawn, the expected severe weather begins. We are off and running through the wet, cloud enshrouded canyon. What a dramatic scene! Pounding rain created waterfalls spilling across the road and a muddy, turbulent Buller River swelled in response. The historic 2 lane highway narrows to one lane as it hugs the vertical cliffs. The river gnaws at the base, threatening to overwhelm the road. The rain is torrential. 

Bicycling South Island New Zealand

Route 2-Westport to Geraldine-6 stages-263 miles

 Westport/Punakaiki/Greymouth/Arthur’s Pass/Springfield, Rakaia Gorge/Geraldine

Anyone who visits New Zealand’s west coast on the South Island knows to expect rain. Like Oregon and Washington coasts, weather comes from the western seas. As the oceans warm up, the evaporation builds clouds that crash into the high western mountain chains and drop their bounty of water. The lush vegetation is jungle like from so much moist attention.

We arrived at Punakaiki (Pancake Rocks Park) early afternoon.

Suddenly, there are tourists everywhere. Where did they come from? Not many passed us all day. The cafes at the park entrance are stuffed with visitors. We pass on the $4.50 single scoop ice cream cone and look for lodging. The Backpackers on the beach wants us to pay $40 for a “tent site” under the laundry line behind the building. The Caravan Park across the street is full, but willing to break the rules of 200 total campers. We get a patch of grass for $30. Soon the “open area” is filled to capacity with late comers.

Punakaiki National Park

The wind has diminished by morning; we take the time to walk the paths around the pancake rock formations before the hordes of tourists arrive. This stretch of coastline is worth the effort to get there. Mother Nature has created a unique environment of sea and rock; man has built access to it.

The most scenic section of the entire west coast highway

is between Westport and Greymouth

Bicycling South Island New Zealand

The Challenge and Beauty of Arthur’s Pass Route

Greymouth to Springfield-115 miles-climb 5995 feet of elevation-3 days

The steepest part is just before reaching Arthur’s Pass Village. It was too steep for us to cycle with luggage. We pushed. Since our tour, they have rebuilt this section of the road. Perhaps it is less difficult to ride.

We found the Mountain House Hostel for the night. It had a pot belly stove to keep us warm and a cozy, traditional atmosphere. The Arthur’s Pass Store and Cafe had a reasonable selection of groceries.

 

From Springfield, it is only 36 miles to Methven. We speed through the first 8 miles in fifteen minutes. We are on the flattest terrain we have seen in New Zealand! Then, we turn the corner and head into the wind. We did not make it to Methven. We grind through the town called Windwhistle.

We have no idea who won. Since we were heading due west, we were glad to survive.

Suddenly, the road drops fiercely into Rakaia Gorge. Even the strong winds cannot prevent our coasting. What a relief. The gorge is a scenic beauty and there just happens to be one of the loveliest campsites in New Zealand overlooking the river.

The aggressive climb out of the gorge into the thrashing wind did not seem like fun.

The Kiwi campers offered to drive us into Methven for needed groceries. The decision to stay was easy. We pitched our tent on the grassy knoll above the river while the wind continued to howl. The sun was hot, the view fantastic, and happy hour circle started at 5pm.

There is not much man made to see from Rakaia Gorge to Geraldine. Mount Somers and the Peel Forest are crafted by nature. Mt Hut looms on our right side all day. Fields of grass with sheep and cows flank the stark hillsides. It is peaceful; there is hardly any traffic; the road is pancake flat. We cruise against the gentler breeze of the day. Only Mayfield, a three shop town, and a café with gourmet delicacies all by itself suggest human interference. We arrive in Geraldine with energy to spare. What a rare feeling!

Here gathered the newly arrived cyclists. Post New Years, suddenly there they were. Arriving in Christ Church from their respective countries, they made their way to Geraldine in preparation for their assault on the South Island. We all met in the kitchen. French, Japanese, English and German couples and singles. Since the rain started again that night, and lasted three days, we all got to know each other well.

Bicycling South Island New Zealand

Route 3-Geraldine to Te Anau-9 Stages-406 miles

Geraldine/Fairlie/Tekapo/Twizel/Mt Cook/Wanaka/Queenstown/Malvora Lake/Te Anau

 

The rain stops. Stephanie and Fabrice and we decide to cycle together as long as we are going the same pace and the same direction.

 Fabrice carries a monstrous load: 4 panniers and a huge waterproof bag on the rear rack. With all that packing room, his spare sandals still have to hang on the outside. We marvel at his tenacity as he is slight of frame and probably weighs less than his luggage!

At the Four Square Market in Twizel, another cyclist eyes our loaded bikes with amusement. He is already camped at the Holiday Park; we end up in the next door site. Welcome Nick (English bloke) to our group of four. Later that evening, in pedal Bruno and Sylvania.  Now we are seven which makes for a very enjoyable evening.

Heavy storms are again in the forecast. It is a factor in bicycling South Island New Zealand. We fear riding the 35 miles to Mt Cook may cost us our only sunny opportunity to see the mountain. Although the ride there and back is scenically wonderful, and there is a campground near the trail head, we decide not to take the chance.

We score a brilliant blue sky with snow capped Mt Cook dominating the view. We hike up the valley (see photos on another page) to explore this amazing region.

Clouds smother the scene that evening, and the storms begin again. Timing is everything.

Now we are seven cyclists, all going the same way from Twizel to Omarama. We lined up on the road and sped off in a tight draft. It was a brutal speed for Anne’s compromised lungs, but the suction from the draft and the smooth road helped her maintain momentum and keep her breathing and heart rate at a safe level. We blitzed the 24 miles between towns in 80 minutes. We celebrated with a Works Burger and scoop of fries. We had Lindis Pass in front of us and wanted more than granola bars for sustenance. Bruno and Sylvania turned east to the coast at Omaru. They would do the same route in the opposite direction. Hopefully we will pass each other at some point. We enjoy the camaraderie of cycling with other adventurers.

We don’t expect to cross Lindis Pass today. We stock up on water and food in preparation for camping in the wild below the pass. It is 50 miles across the top; no food or water along the route.

 We manage 20 miles against it before giving up. We reached the base of the big climb. A derelict picnic area (with rotten picnic tables and full rubbish bins) in a stand of trees will be our camp for the night.

There are no toilets or water, and no signs to say, “Camping prohibited”. The temperature drops severely; we all don wool hats, long underwear, windbreakers, virtually all the layers we have. Dinner is soup and instant mashed potatoes (light weight food that we always carry), and bedtime comes long before dark. The wind rattles the tent all night but we are snug inside and sleep with the satisfaction of a challenge met and a good day of cycling with friends.

Dawn breaks cold: 7 degrees. It’s hard to release the warm sleeping bag and step into the brace of cold wind. Perhaps we should wait? No. Let’s get it done. It is so much easier, and more fun to meet challenges in the company of friends. We spur each other on, support and cajole our way through breakfast and packing. The sun is forbidden in our forested enclave, but outside on the road, we see its warming invitation. Still, we cycle in wool hats, tights and gloves. It is true. It is possible to experience four seasons in one day in New Zealand.

So, on we go to Wanaka, another 22 miles, tourist haven of the Southern Alps. It’s a long ride and finishes with a giant hill after a stream crossing. Signs leading to town promote skydiving, helicopter flights, glider flights, glacier treks, bungee jumping.

The Information site is awash with tourists begging to pay for extravagant services. All we want right now is a place to camp and a hot shower. It is only a short distance away, on the edge of town and lake. We corner a camping spot where vehicles are prohibited and set up our tents.

Queenstown has San Francisco style hills. After cycling down to the lake edge, and tourist bureau, we cycled back up to the Lakeview Holiday Park overlooking the lake. Bursting at the seams with tourists with deep pockets, the park charges the ultimate $20/person for tent space plus $2/shower. It is run like a corporation, not a friendly campground. We counted 22 different camper van rental units parked side by side; each had a view of the other’s windows.

At least it was sunny and dry. 

 We settled in for two days to explore Queenstown.

The exploration was curtailed immediately once we discovered the price to ride the gondola to the mountaintop was $25/person; a one hour tour boat on the lake was $75/person; a burger at McDonalds was $9, and a loaf of good bread at the supermarket was $6. We walked around the wharf and town and refrained from depositing our skimpy budget into the tourist coffer.

Queenstown to Te Anau -Spectacular!    

Mostly gravel-85 miles in two days

The gravel route to Te Anau begins with a fabulous ride across Lake Wakatipu on a restored coal fired passenger ship called the TSS Earnslaw. The ship was constructed in the early 1900’s and was the largest to work these waters. The engine room is completely visible from the lounge above. The coal fired steam engine is massive and propels the boat at 13 knots per hour. The parlor is complete with a grand saloon with piano. Tours of the ship are given on route.

The fare is only $25 for 1 ½ hours and is probably the best expenditure in Queenstown, where the cost of most any event ranges from $150 to $200.

We land at Walter Peak Station . It is a working sheep station with a beautiful lodge. Tourists come on the TSS Earnslaw on a package which includes a tour of the station and accommodation in the lodge.

After Coromandel, Anne and I had vowed to never to do dirt and gravel roads again, but here we are about to begin another adventure on gravel. Our companions, Nick, Fabrice and Stephanie stirred our adventuring spirit for another effort. We were glad they did. 

Rain is in the air, but we are able to outrun it for a period of time as the road heads inland and the rain moves down the lake. We follow along a river through a rugged wide canyon that leads to the high country.

We have our first stream crossing thereafter. It is possible to ride through if enough speed can be maintained, but Anne and Stephanie remove their shoes and wade across. There is another crossing a short time later, just before we start to climb. The route is wilderness with the exception of the few ranch improvements from time to time. We see two vehicles on the first day.

We start climbing the only long steep hill on the route. Our tires slip on the loose gravel which doubles our efforts to make progress. We walk portions.

After an hour top out. We are now on a large plateau where several valleys have topped out together. It is the type of terrain that one would expect to see at 12,000 to 14,000 in the U.S. and we are at only 3,000 ft.

 

Bicycling South Island New Zealand-Route 3-8-Walter Peak to Malvora Lake profile

The rain is coming up from all the valleys, and has us surrounded and we can feel it coming on. Our campground at Malvora Lake is approximately 2 hours away and we will be wet and cold before we arrive. The road starts to descend; the surface improves from large rock to smaller and we pick up a tailwind. 

It is a long day and we arrive in camp wet and cold; Stephanie and Fabrice forego cooking; Nick’s tent has a safe cooking shelter; we brave the rain by hiding under thick trees. The strength of the storm increases throughout the night.

In the morning, we consider waiting out the wind and rain but need food so we start out with all our clothes on our backs. Much of the road is again large rock and our teeth chatter as we ride. There is some traffic on this side as far as the lake; there is washboard for the first time. The tail wind picks up to the point we must ride our brakes for long periods of time. We have not experienced this high of a tailwind before.

We arrive in Te Anau very tired and happy.

 

 

 

Te Anau is one of the most functional and appealing towns that we have seen in New Zealand. It is situated on one of the larger lakes in Fiordland.

There is a park system along the lake that is over a mile in length and is maintained very well. The only drawback to this perfection is that the also clean public restroom costs one dollar to enter. Mike wanted to ask the attendant what happens when a person in need does not have a dollar. He did not ask as he knows the answer. The entire town appears new. Most every property is in excellent condition with recent paint and good landscaping. There is good variety of attractive restaurants and shops.

The Te Anau Kiwi Holiday Park near the city center was one of the nicest we have stayed at, with a large complex of kitchen and lounge rooms.  Once again, the weather turns very cold so we hibernate two days and plan our next adventure: The Southern Scenic Route.

Bicycling South Island New Zealand

Route 4-Southern Scenic Route-7 Stages-230 miles

Te Anau/Manapouri/Tuatapere/Riverton/Invercargill Curio Bay/Owaka/Balclutha

For a scenic route, parts of it are on the fringe of uninteresting. There is some lovely country scenery, but nothing to really stir the juices, especially after the magnificent route we took to Te Anau. We got the feeling the Chamber of Commerce called it the Southern Scenic Route just to bring more tourism to the area. There is, however, very little traffic on the route which makes it an excellent choice for a peaceful ride.

We left Te Anau early. The ride to Tuatapere was 60 miles with some big climbs. There were wide valleys and grand mountains along much of the way and we managed the biggest hill without much time or difficulty. We covered half the distance easily, with energy to spare.

Why not, we thought, take the 8 mile gravel side road to Borland Lodge and spend a night there. The lodge property had been utilized for housing by workers building one of New Zealand’s larger power plants. After the plant was constructed, it was turned into an eco study center for youth and the public in general.

The lodge has complete kitchen facilities and great room for relaxing. We had enough food with us to stay.

At the turn off road, we had all agreed to go to Borland for the night.

 But, after riding 4 of the 8 miles to the lodge, Fabrice declared that he didn’t want to finish the trip. It had provoked sciatica pain in his right leg. We went back over the gravel we had just crossed and traded 4 miles for 42.

At the highway again, we are greeted by a strong headwind. We pass a school with water, bathroom and tables; a sign says, “No camping”. We seek permission from two locals to camp there as Fabrice is really hurting, but they abruptly reject any possibility. We finally make it to Tuatapere by 6:30 pm.

Tuatapere, is halfway from Te Anau to Invercargill. We were not impressed with the town itself, although it gives access to activities in Fiordland. We chose the Caravan Park right across the street from the Four Square Market. It was an unfortunate choice. The manager was rude and unpleasant. We would have left but for the late hour and more rain. We did not have the energy after a long ride against headwinds to check out the other Holiday Park. We left very early the next morning.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Riverton is on the coast and has a very pleasant Longwood Holiday Park where we spent the night. The property had been used for a Sunday school, Helen, the owner explained, but then the kids stopped coming so the property was sold.

We found the Amble On Inn Holiday Park 5 kilometers from town. The very friendly manager let us put up our tent under the BBQ area. We had a roof, comfy chairs and were just steps away from the kitchen and bathrooms. We spent the next 2 days there sitting out another heavy rain storm. We planned our route through the Catlins in anticipation of another good section of riding.

New Zealanders are a little bit like the sheep they raise. They are exceptionally tolerant of all events that come their way, and seem to find the silver lining in every cloud; they stick together rather than forage off by themselves; a calm approach to life is more accepted than confrontation.

It is true; we were traveling the west coast and the south coast where rainfall and high winds are always going to be highest. But this La Nina year has brought the most severe weather in the last 100 years to all parts of both islands. It is useless to run away from the weather; it will change when you get to the new location. Perhaps we should adopt the New Zealanders’ attitude. 

The Fabulous Catlins

We had a fine and beautiful day cycling the 45 miles from Invercargill to Curio Bay. The main highway 1 east takes all the heavy traffic while our secondary road is quiet and scenic. It rolls gently through green farmland backed by soft mountains. The south west wind was strong and pushing. We had actually timed this part right!

 

 

 

 

 

 

The sun shone all day; we arrived in the gorgeous Curio Bay early enough to enjoy walking the trails and photographing the area.

An evening visit to the penguin beach was warm and delightful.

We found a tent site with a view of the ocean, yet still protected from the strong winds by flax bush. The camp host told us that afternoon we might get, “a wee bit of rain and wind tonight.”

 that had already struck Australia hit New Zealand’s south coast. Our tent weathered the wind and rain well until 5:00am when the wind doubled in force. The strong flexible poles bent almost two feet before springing back to position. We feared they might break so we pulled the stakes and ran with everything still inside the folded package to the small picnic shelter. The rain blew sideways; we could scarcely stand upright. The shelter provided a roof, but the cold wind blew harshly against us through the slated sides. Anne had to wrap up in her sleeping bag to stay warm. The weather forecast promised another 2 weeks of such unstable conditions.

 

How would we cycle onward into more of this!

By noon, the rain halted and the clouds parted. Yet, the NW wind continued to howl. It is very difficult to ride when the wind pushes sideways against the panniers. But, if we do not go, perhaps we will be standing in the shelter yet another night.

We wanted a caravan park with a closed kitchen area each night to wait out the bad weather. We packed up and headed to Owaka,  50 miles through roller coaster hills. It is a pleasant route in that there is hardly any traffic, but the hills are tough. It courses through forests, farmland, and offers occasional ocean views.

We cancelled all plans to visit the various beaches and sights along the way because they offered no shelters in which to hide.

Owaka is tiny; but there is a Four Square market. We arrived just before closing, found the Youth Hostel and set up camp before the rain began again. A large, old hospital building, the hostel became our refuge for another day. The large kitchen, living room areas offered a warm and friendly ambiance and turned a wind blown evening into a cheerful gathering with friends…Stephanie and Fabrice were already there!

Long days waiting out rain are ideal periods to use the internet. But, it has been frustrating at times to find a suitable source. We usually look for the library.

The Information site and a couple hot spots in town all charged the same. In a conversation with the Information site personnel, we asked why the price was so high. The nice lady replied sweetly, “our council sets the prices; 

The next day, we read an article in the local paper that cemented this attitude toward the tourist. Queenstown, the undisputed tourist capital of New Zealand, was putting forth a study. They wanted to assess how much money the tourist was costing them and come up with a plan to charge additional fees to support infrastructure etc.

 One sensible council woman said at the end of the article that last summer the tourist enriched Queenstown’s coffer by 8 million dollars. 

Bicycling South Island New Zealand

Route 5-Balclutha to Pukerangi -9 Stages-188 miles

Balclutha//Millers Flat/Alexandra/Otago Rail Trail/Pukerangi

Balclutha to Alexandra-Up the Clutha River

We find a secondary road all the way to Beaumont. The main highway is a bit north. The scenery is rolling farmland; what makes it so serene is the lack of traffic.

 We come to a junction and a bridge across the river that is not on our tourist map. There are no signs. We cross anyway, hoping it is the route to Beaumont.

 

The Clutha River is is a beauty.

There is no traffic; we have a tailwind. 

A little before 3:00 we arrive at Beaumont. It is where the main highway and our quiet route come together. There is a caravan park at the pub/hotel that charges $11 per person. We check it out but decide not to stay; the facilities are very old and dirty.

We leave and head up the road toward, Millers Flat, the next caravan park and store. After a short climb, we see a very steep hill ahead; Anne remembers seeing a sign for a rail trail that went around this set of hills. We retreat to the closed pub where an information sign tells of the rail trail.

It is ambiguous as to distance to Millers Flat along this rail trail; the map on the sign shows only 9 kilometers; the rest of the distance to Miller Flat is just an arrow pointing off the map. But we decide to take this route as it is a RR grade and looked easier than the steep hills. The route (Clutha Gold Trail) turned out to be very scenic and tranquil, even though the gravel surface had big loose rocks to negotiate. There were picnic sites along the route and many opportunities for freedom camping.

We rode the 9 kilometers on this rail trail quickly; it fed into a good gravel road of undetermined distance. Clouds darkened and the inevitable rain soaked us through before we got to Miller’s Flat Holiday Park. We assembled our tent in the kitchen and staked it out when the rain gave us a break.

We had ridden over 110 kilometers; although an easy gradient, it was uphill all the way so it was very early to bed. The wind howled all night; rain pounded on the tent; by early  morning, the tent of our French friends was sitting in a small lake. Luckily we had a big laundry room in which to hang everything to dry.

The next day, we finally see some sucker holes in the sky about noon. Since we have a strong pushing wind, we pack up and start the serious climb to Alexandra.

It is about 35 more miles from Millers Flat to Alexandra. The park owners tell us we can stay on the secondary road we are presently on and travel without traffic all the way to the Roxburgh Dam, 27 km; this we do. We have an unexpected tail wind and the riding is very fast without effort. We ride along the Clutha River much of the way to the Roxburgh Bridge.

As soon as we climb a short hill and reach a level plateau, the land seems so much richer with lush green plants. This is an area of quality fruit production of every sort. There are also many fine horses and a trotting club with grand facilities. There are no rich houses or other signs of wealth, but the trotting club says it all.

Much too soon we are at the dam and it is a large one.

The land below the dam has been made into a park. We cross the dam to meet the highway and start our first real climb of the day.

After about ½ hour of up, an information sign shows a passing lane 3 km ahead. The first hill takes over an hour and with a short down, we climb again. As we climb, there is the range of mountains, on our left side. These mountains are directly  to the south and are the highest other than the Alps, a short distance to the west.  The mountains and the valley show a lack of rainfall with their barren hillsides with still a trace of snow near the top.

We continue for 30 km of steep climbing and dropping with very little flat in between. Many of the single climbs are several hundred feet and by the time we are going downhill for the last time, we are completely exhausted.

When we reach Alexandra, the sun is out and we feel summer for the first time in many days. It seems like weeks. The town is a nice place to rest for a day or two, as it has a very nice feel to it and all the amenities that can be found in a town of over 5,000 inhabitants. This will be the largest and most enjoyable town found along the Otago Rail Trail.

The Otago Rail Trail-Alexandra to Middlemarch

The Otago Rail Trail is an example of what New Zealand government is promoting for safe and enjoyable long distance bicycling. About 80% of the thousands of people that bicycle the trail  are from New Zealand. Yet, we have only met 2 long distance bikers from New Zealand while biking for the last 3 months.

It is worth it to take a day ride to Clyde. Clyde is actually the beginning of the Rail Trail.  It is  8 km to the historic town and a very nice place to have a lunch at an  historic tavern, or even spend the night.  It is possible to take the Rail Trail to Clyde and then take an exciting single track route along the Clutha River on the return.

Staring from Alexandra, the Rail Trail is 143 km to Middlemarch. We split the journey into 5 days of cycling.

Day 1-Alexandra to Omakau-18 miles

The curved bridge over the Manuherikia River is a highlight as is the river itself.

The days ride is a little over 3 hours, but that is enough. We are all still exhausted from the ride to Alexandra and decide to take the next day off. The Doc campground in Omakau is large with lots of trees and good views of the countryside. There is also a newly remodeled kitchen. Most all of the folks staying here are bikers off the trail, so there is plenty to talk about. Next to the campground, there is a golf course and a grocery only 1 km away. Also a pub/hotel and a good café across the street from the pub.
There is a newspaper article in the local café, explaining that there are over 20,000 people a year that use some portion of the trail. But, probably less than 25% of the users travel the entire route of 150 km.  I believe that most of the riders take from 3 to 5 days for the entire route.

The historic gold town of Ophir to the south east of Omakau is on a circular route that is well worth the extra 5 km.  There are unique historic buildings  and the incredible stone bridge over the Manuherikia River.

 

Day 2-Omakau to Oturehua-18 miles

We ride over historic, unique bridges.

The Poolburn Viaduct  is an incredible work of engineering that includes some awesome stonework, that is seen as one passes through the Poolburn George.

Day 3-Oturehua to Ranfurly-16 miles

 

 

 

 

 

This section of trail crosses over the highest point just before Wedderburn. It’s all downhill after that.

Ranfurly is a lively town famous for its art deco buildings. There is a self guiding leaflet for an art deco walk around town that you can get from the information office.

A marvelous museum of the 30s is a highlight. Every imaginable artifact from that time period is displayed.

Although there are many interesting accommodations in Ranfurly, we stayed at the Ranfurly Holiday Park and Motel which offered the least expensive accommodation. Touted as a family park with lots of activities for children, we lucked out with a quiet night of camping on a manicured lawn.

Day 4-Ranfurly to Hyde-19 miles

 

Hyde is a tiny rural community dominated by the Central Otago Hotel and Backpackers. It is a beautifully restored building providing lodging and food. Originally founded as a gold mining town.

There are more tunnels, bridges and wide open scenery as the trail follows the Taieri River to Hyde.

Hyde is a tiny rural community dominated by the Central Otago Hotel and Backpackers. It is a beautifully restored building providing lodging and food. Originally founded as a gold mining town.

Day 5-Hyde to Middlemarch-17 miles

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The 500 foot long Price Creek Tunnel is a highlight for the day.