Bicycling Europe-2018

Mediterranean Coast

We cycled the Mediterranean Coast from La Spezia, Italy to Barcelona, Spain.

The total distance is about 675 miles. We started September 15 and finished October 25, 2018. 

We created our own route by piecing together information from websites and following

our noses.There were no designated routes that really covered all of this. Euro Velo 8

was useable in many sections but was very disjointed and veered far inland in places.

Most of the route we created followed the coast more completely and was on regular

roads with many dedicated bike paths interspersed.

In January, 2020, Euro Velo published a new brochure on Euro Velo 8.

Beware, however, many sections are more for mountain

biking than touring, In Italy, this new route goes way inland and misses the entire

stunning coast line between the French border and La Spezia.

It goes from

Andalucia, Spain to Cyprus and is 7500 kilometers long.

(4660 miles)

We encountered 3 cities that were extremely challenging to get through safely:

Genoa, Monaco, and Marseille.

More details about these cities when we get there. The rest of

the coast is an amazing variety of terrain, towns, parks, tourist areas and historic places.

In September, October, the climate is perfect and tourism is considerably less.

La Spezia (Cinque Terre scenic route) to Levanto

Euro Velo 8 completely by passes the entire Italian coast. Yet this was a favorite on our route. 

Perhaps because it was September, we had no issues with heavy traffic. 

Cinque Terre begins west of La Spezia. We recommend not cycling into the big city.  There was camping at strategic distances throughout this entire route along Italy’s coast. The only place we did not find any camping was right at the beginning of Cinque Terre. We stayed at the hotel Due Gemelli right on the route. Good choice.

Cinque Terre scenic route is high above the sea; small Italian towns on the sea are accesible by steep descents, but we stayed up high until the road took a more natural descent into Levanto.

Like many Italian towns, Levanto is charming and very Italian. 

Link to Details

Levanto to Rapallo

Leaving Levanto, follow the unique bike path through tunnels along the rocky shore to Bonassola, another pretty beach town. 

Then, after Framura, the hard climb back up to the main road begins.

Link to Details

Rapallo to Albissola-Capo

The big challenge for this day is to get safely through the big city of Genova.

Euro Velo 8 route is far inland, so we pick what seemed to be the smaller roads right through the heart of the city.

We also wanted to make a stop at Decathlon sporting goods store which was basically downtown.

Although it took a long time, we felt relatively safe. 

Out the other side, we headed for Albissola-Capo where the maps showed a camping ground.

Indeed, there was a campground…way up a very long, steep hill.

The campground itself  (Columbus) was on a steep hill with terraced sites.

Link to Details

Albissola-Capo to San Bartolomeo al Mar

Back to smaller towns and beautiful sea shore.

We were heading for the historic town of San Bartolomeo al Mar.

Excellent campgrounds located right on the shore with access to beautiful beaches and wsimming. We stayed two days.

Link to Details

Bartolomeo al Mar, Italy

San Bartolomeo to Ospedaletti, Italy

What a cycling day. Most of this route is on a paved, dedicated bike path.

It follows right along the sea.

Link to Details

On to France

Ospedaletti, Italy to Antibes, France

Monaco and Nice

Here comes Monaco. We made a big mistake by riding into Monaco with the idea of following the roads along the sea shore. We were half way through Monaco on these smaller roads when we came to a barrier manned by police. For whatever reason, our route ahead was closed. The guard did not have much patience with us. He pointed the way up to a route going around Monaco. Little did we know, the climb up was through a very long tunnel with speeding traffic. We were virtually on a freeway with no way to turn around. The tunnel had a very narrow sidewalk just wide enough for Anne’s trike. With no room for error, we crawled along this sidewalk for 45 minutes before exiting the tunnel. Once out, we were in a safer place to ride. Our map shows going around Monaco before getting there, which is what we should have done. Maybe now the sea road is open, but the tunnel was frightening and not a good chopice!

Once around Monaco, we had beautiful riding along the sea on numerous dedicated bike paths.

Link to Details

The road around Monaco goes inland into the mountains and comes right down into Nice.

We took a long time cycling the beautiful bike path along the shore in Nice. Our Antibes campsite was not much further.

Antibes to Agay, France

This day is filled with variety.

A 30 mile an hour wind has wipped up the Sea. It is crossing over the road, which has been closed for a short section to motor vehicles. 

Link to Details

Such wind is the engine , however for sail boarders. One town we passed through is obviously a favorite spot.

We climb above the sea encountering wonderful views as we pedal and cruise downhill again.

Nearing Agay, the scenery is quite picturesque with rocky coves, red rock hills and a Roman Aquaduct.

Agay is a tiny village with a grocery store, some shops, and our favorite campground right on a bay of the sea.

Agay to Ramatuella, France

This is a fairly easy day along the sea, passing gorgeous beaches. Lots of cafes and shops make for a slow day enjoying the ammenities.

At the end, it is a steep climb into Ramatuella and  camping on the hill.

Link to Details

Ramatuella to Le Lavandou

More beautiful beaches with lunch spots, and a beach campsite again.

Link to Details

Le Lavandou to Sanary-Sur-Mer

Lots of towns including the larger city of Toulon. 

A bike path takes us through many congested places but, as usual, going through a city, we lose the path.

Sanary-Sur-Mer is a nice beach town.

Link to Details

Sanary-Sur-Mer to Cassis, France

What we remember most about this day is the charming, historical town of Cassis, our destination.

The historic town is on the sea; the campground is up a steep hill overlooking the town.

We stayed the whole afternoon in the town before tackling the hill up to the campground for the night.

Link to Details

Cassis to Marseille to Arles

It’s a short ride to Marseille from Cassis.

There were bike paths getting us into the city, but there was no safe route out to the west.

So, we spent a little time in the center, then caught a train to Arles to the northwest.

From Arles, we would find good routes back to the Mediterranean

Arles to La Grande Motte

Leaving Arles, we joined  the designated cycling route along the Rhone River: Euro Velo 8. 

We had ignored EV8 since leaving Antibes since it did not follow the coastline. See map. 

Due south from Arles is the Rhone Delta.

Our route back to the Mediterranean followed the shore of the Delta and a variety of canals.

La Grande Motte started an area of FUN campsites, a brand of camping areas that provided activities for thousands of children. Thank goodness it was September and the kiddies were all back in school!

Link to Details

La Grande Motte to Cap d’Adge, France

This is an interesting day of cycling along narrow bands of sand between the Mediterranean and inland waterways.

Paved, dedicated bike paths course through this interesting scenery.

Cap d’Adge has some very different architecture!

Link to Details

Cap d’Adge to Narbonne, France

We follow parts of the Canal du Midi inland to Narbonne, still on EV8.

Many parts of the route are on single track, sand and very slow going.

Anne’s trike barely fits in the track.

We get to Narbonne too tired to explore the famous architecture.

Camping is still south of the city around Narbonne Plage

Link to Details

Narbonne to Barcares, France

Another day of some single track with the route meandering between the sea and inland waterways.

It’s an interesting part of the French Mediterranean.

Link to Details

Le Barcares to Le Boulou, France

Still following Euro Velo 8, we are surprised by the numerous, difficult places on a designated touring route.

We leave the shores of the Mediterranean and head inland to Le Boulou, on EV 8. 

We question why the route did not continue along the sea into Spain on what appeared to be a very scenic route.

Link to Details

Le Boulou, France to La Jonquera, Spain

We still don’t know why, even the updated EV 8 route, goes inland to Le Boulou. D914 in France to N260 in Spain along the sea looked like a very logical and scenic route.

Wish we had followed along the sea as yo will see the next leg from Boulou to Perpignan on EV8 was an exercise in 4x4 bicycle touring.

We firmly recommend NOT going this way!

There is a secondary road on the map that parallels the highway going from Le Boulou to La Jonquera.

Link to Details

La Jonquera to L’escala, Spain

The Pirinexus wasn’t done with us yet.

We were on the beautiful road with wide shoulder heading towards L’escala when the EV8 signed pulled us off on a side road.

Immediately, the side road climbed a very steep hill before making a sharp turn into the woods and droppig off onto another dirt track.

We instantly turned around and went back to the nice highway.

No more Pirinexus for us!

We stopped trying to follow EV8 and just made our own route.

The route passed through some old spanish towns worth investigating.

Link to Details

L’escala to Platja d’Aro via Pals

Euro Velo 8 in Spain is still a figment of the imagination.

Most of it is still in the planning stage.

Very short portions are under development.

Hence, we plotted our own way from here to Barcelona, our ultimate destination.

Hoping to follow paved roads, we still got side tracked onto some dubious dirt routes.

Link to Details

Platja d’Aro to Lloret de Mar

This is perhasps the most famous and most popular stretch of Costa Brava.

Spectacular sea views lurk around every corner. It is thrilling to ride.

 A finishing touch to our entire ride along the Mediterranean.

Link to Details

It is 26 miles from Lloret de Mar to Mataro. In Mataro, we catch the train to Barcelona airport.

Our 2018 cycling adventure is over.

The last strech along the Mediterranean took from September 16 to October 15, 2018. It was 675 miles long.

The pace allowed us to enjoy the places we went through and take days off. For us, it was a perfect combination.

Now, we look forward to our next summer adventure.

Buen Viaje!