Bicycling France-2019
Bicycling France-2019
Our Original plan for 2019 was to cycle the Rhone River Route from south to north. The Rhone River Route is mostly easy to moderate and follows a lot of paved bicycle paths. But, we met a French couple in Montelimar who lived in the French Alps east of Grenoble. They told us about the special beauty of the area and gave us specific information where to go. We changed our plans.
Our French advisors recommended two areas in particular: Vassieux-en-Vercours, a mountainous area west of Grenoble, and Bourg d’Oisans, an alpine area famous for an abundance of cycling routes including many Tour de France routes.
Our Equipment
We were primed and ready for the excitement of riding Tour de France routes. The year before, we added electric assist to our bikes so we could enjoy the great mountain passes while still carrying all our baggage for camping. We had chosen Bafang BBSO2 mid-drive motor and 500 watt lithium batteries to provide pedal assistance on demand.
Anne’s Azub TriCon Trike
Anne rides an Azub TriCon trike with electric assist added. The trike is built in the Czech Republic. It is by far the best trike she has ever ridden. Stable at high speeds, tough and rugged, it carries a ton of equipment without blinking. The trike folds into a small enough package for air travel.
Mike’s new Tern 20″ Foldable
Page Contents
- Mike’s new Tern 20″ Foldable
- Our New Tent
- Rhone River-Stage 1
- Nimes to Montelimar
- This stretch of the Rhone River is relatively flat. It is a total 117 miles with an elevation gain of 2175 feet.
- There are sections of paved bicycle path as well as dirt paths.
- It follows the river but is not necessarily in sight of it much of the way.
- A highlight of this section of the river is Avignon.
- This beautiful city served as the home of the
- Papacy between 1309 to 1377. Recognized for its
- architectural beauty and historic importance, the centre of
- Avignon was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1995.
- East to the Alps-Stage 2
- Montelimar to Crest
- The Vercours
- Col de la Machine (Col Laval)
- The road drops dramatically from Col de la Machine to the valley floor we viewed from so high above. There, built on the cliffs of the La Bourne river, stands Pont-en-Royans. A most unusual village.
- Leaving our river campsite, we start another climb of exceptional beauty, passing through Les Gorges de La Bourne.
- From river bottom, to high, green meadows, we stop to camp in Villard de Lans, a typical small French ski village.
- We leave Vercours Regional Park on a long descent
- to Grenoble where we skirt the city and camp on the east side in L’empurie.
- It’s 22 miles from our campsite in L’empurie to Bourg d’Oisans
- and the heart of the French Alps.
- Bourg d’Oisans-Stage 3
- 6 day rides we rode starting from Bourg d’Oisans
- #1-Alp d’Huez
- #2 Alp d’Huez-Allemond Loop Day Ride
- #3 Les Balcones
- #4 Les Deux Alps
- #5 Villard de Notre Dame Loop
- Villard de Notre Dame Loop
- Villard de Notre Dame Loop
- Villard de Notre Dame Loop
- Villard de Notre Dame Loop
- Villard de Notre Dame Loop
- Villard de Notre Dame Loop
- Villard de Notre Dame Loop
- Villard de Notre Dame Loop
- Villard de Notre Dame Loop
- Villard de Notre Dame Loop
- Villard de Notre Dame Loop
- Villard de Notre Dame Loop
- Villard de Notre Dame Loop
- Villard de Notre Dame Loop
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- Villard de Notre Dame Loop
- Villard de Notre Dame Loop
- Villard de Notre Dame Loop
- Villard de Notre Dame Loop
- Villard de Notre Dame Loop
- Villard de Notre Dame Loop
- Villard de Notre Dame Loop
- Villard de Notre Dame Loop
- Villard de Notre Dame Loop
- #6 Les Ouilles
- Tour of Tour de France Routes-Stage 4
- Bourg d’Oisans to La Grave & Meije Glacier
- Cable car station to Meije Glacier in La Grave
- Meije Glacier
- La Grave to Briancon
- Col d’Isoard
- Briancon to Lanslevillard
- Briancon to Oulix
- Oulix to Mt Cenis via back roads
- Mt Cenis
- A Musical Summary
Mike purchased a new bike this year. He was having difficulty dismounting the standard 26″ wheel upright bike. At 78 years old and 5’4″ tall, the heel of his bike shoe kept catching on the bar. Balancing the heavily loaded bike was becoming dangerous. So, he shopped around for a 20″ wheel upright bike designed for touring. He settled on the Tern Folding 20″ bike. We added the Bafang mid-drive motor and 500 watt battery. It performed flawlessly throughout the summer.
Our New Tent
Mike is 78, Anne is now 75. It was time for a tent that we could stand up in instead of crawl in and out of. With electric assist, we no longer cared about weight. So…we splurged.
We chose Lone Rider, a tent designed for motorcyclists. It had a large, separate walk in sleeping area and a fully enclosable patio area big enough for a motorcycle. It weighs 12 pounds.
At the end of 2018, we discovered Komoot.
Rhone River-Stage 1
Nimes to Montelimar
This stretch of the Rhone River is relatively flat. It is a total 117 miles with an elevation gain of 2175 feet.
There are sections of paved bicycle path as well as dirt paths.
It follows the river but is not necessarily in sight of it much of the way.
A highlight of this section of the river is Avignon.
This beautiful city served as the home of the
Papacy between 1309 to 1377. Recognized for its
architectural beauty and historic importance, the centre of
Avignon was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1995.
Perhaps Pont D’Avignon is the most famous landmark. The beautiful bridge was built between 1177 and 1185. It has been destroyed many times…by wars and by floods. Read the facinating history and stories of Pont D’Avignon on this website: https://travelnotesandbeyond.com/avignon-bridge-pont-saint-benezet/
Leaving Avignon
It is flat, easy riding most of the way to Montelimar.
There are long sections of quiet bicycle paths through natural surroundings.
Small villages with historic buildings abound along the route.
Always a great experience is mixing with the locals.
We celebrated Anne’s 75th birthday at a small village pub.
It wasn’t long before Mike got picked up by a French lady to dance.
She had no idea what she was in for!
East to the Alps-Stage 2
Montelimar to Grenoble
The route from Montelimar to Grenoble follows a lovely river valley before climbing the long, winding Col de Rousset and entering a mountainous area known as the Vercours. The fantastic Col de La Machine hangs on a cliff edge before descending to the wider valleys of St Nazaire-en-Royans. There is one more long ascent to Villard-de-Lans before finally dropping down to Grenoble. it was an easy 22 mile climb to Bourg d’Oisans and the heart of our Alps tour for stage 3.
Montelimar to Crest
This is a lovely valley ride through an area of wineries and lavendar farms. It climbs gently to the charming town of Crest.
Crest Tower
The Crest Tower, dating from the 11th century, was once part of a castle. It is the highest medieval keep still standing in France. The rest of the castle was destroyed by Louis Xiii in the 17th century.
There is a very nice campground just up the river from Crest.
After Crest, the beautiful valley continues all the way to Die, another Medieval village.
The road climbs, still gently, and the valley narrows, getting closer to the lovely Drome River which now accompanies us on our way.
This is a peaceful, scenic and historic part of our ride that affords lots of interesting cultural and photographic stops.
By M.Minderhoud - Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, Link
The central plaza in Die is small but interesting…especially the food!
The Vercours
The Vercours is a mountainous region southwest of Grenoble. The area was given Regional Park status in 1970. The scenic splendor is astounding in it’s variety of gorges, massives, cliffs and meadows. Scenic roads abound and there is little traffic. But to get there, a cyclist must first ascend the tortuous route to Col de Rousett.
After summiting Col de Rousset, the terrain opens up into beautiful valleys surrounded by mountains.
We pass through small villages.
There is no traffic.
Our destination for the night is a tiny village named Vassieux-en-Vercours.
Col de la Machine (Col Laval)
After Vassieux-en-Vercours, we climb another great pass.
The road is etched out of the rocky mountainside.
The valley below seems so far away, it is lost in the haze of sunlight.
We have the road to ourselves.
The road drops dramatically from Col de la Machine to the valley floor we viewed from so high above. There, built on the cliffs of the La Bourne river, stands Pont-en-Royans. A most unusual village.
Our Favorite Campsite
The restaurant serves delicious French cuisine at a very reasonable price.
Leaving our river campsite, we start another climb of exceptional beauty, passing through Les Gorges de La Bourne.
From river bottom, to high, green meadows, we stop to camp in Villard de Lans, a typical small French ski village.
We leave Vercours Regional Park on a long descent
to Grenoble where we skirt the city and camp on the east side in L’empurie.
After many days in the natural world of the park, we are now surrounded by restaurants, and stores.
It’s 22 miles from our campsite in L’empurie to Bourg d’Oisans
and the heart of the French Alps.
Bourg d’Oisans-Stage 3
A cyclist destination in the heart of the Alps
We didn’t know much about Bourg D’oisans other than that the famous Tour de France climb of Alp D’huez started at the edge of town.
When we arrived, our usual tourist office stop produced a detailed color brochure of all the popular cycling routes in the area. We ended up staying two weeks in Bourg d’Oisans exploring many routes and enjoying the town. We set up camp in Camping Le Colporteur on lovely, spacious grounds with ample sunshine considering the surrounding towering mountains. Below are pictures from the day rides in the immediate area. These rides were the highlight of our entire tour. We only did a handful of the many choices.. Here’s a link to a web page with many routes to choose from.
6 day rides we rode starting from Bourg d’Oisans
Ride along side Lac du Chambon, passing through several tunnels
Bike lights recommended
This entire ride between Bourg d’Oisans and La Grave is on a beautiful, wide road
Approaching La Grave with Meije Glacier in the distance.
Several campgrounds in La Grave
Cable car station to Meije Glacier in La Grave
Take time to ride the cable car to the glacier.
Have lunch at the scenic restaurant
Meije Glacier
La Grave to Briancon
26.7 miles
+2175 feet/-3050 feet
This beautiful ride climbs steadily up a valley edged by picturesque mountains. At Col du Lautaret, the road goes straight ahead, downhill 3050 feet to Briancon, or take the left turn and challenge Col du Galibier, a very famous Tour de France route.
Col d’Isoard
There are several route choices of interest from Briancon. Refer to map posted above. We wanted to cycle Col d’Isoard so we made a loop route south from Briancon to Embrun following the La Durance River, and returned via Guillestra and Arvieux for the start of the climb to the famous Tour de France Col. I seem to have lost the pictures for this section. It was a lovely area of diverse scenery and has often been ridden by the Tour de France. I have pictures from Arvieux onward. What a dramatic climb it is to Isoard.
Briancon to Lanslevillard
It is 51 miles from Briancon to Lanslevillard with a total of +7150 feet. We rode this in 3 stages, stopping for the night in Oulx, Italy and Mt Cenis. The entire ride provides magnificent scenery and excellent roads. We did, however, take a short cut between Oulx and Mt Cenis which turned out to take hours longer. Instead of the main road, we broke off onto small backroads through rural mountain towns that did not see tourists on a regular basis.
Briancon to Oulix
Oulix to Mt Cenis via back roads
Mt Cenis
From Lanslevillard, we rode back to Bourg d’Oisans via Modane, St Jean de Maurienne and over the astounding Col de la Croix de Fer. Apparently, I did not move all those pictures to the computer. The camera is in France. When Covid is over, and we can go back to France, someday, I will upload the remaining photos.
So, this is the end of Touring France 2019.
Hope you enjoyed the journey.
A Musical Summary
Three videos with music that summarize our 2019 France Tour